3 Days in Lake Como:

The Ultimate Village-Hopping Itinerary

The quintessential “3 days in Lake Como” itinerary, complete with the best things to do in Como: stunning historic villas, private boat cruises, dramatic mountain hikes, and… some very necessary reality checks.

My dad and stepmother have gone to Lake Como multiple times and rave about it endlessly. If they had a spare 10 mil laying around I’m sure they’d say ‘Ciao!’ and leave all their gorgeous children behind living it up in the great USA. (Except for me, because I said “Ciao!’ 10 years ago to join a circus in China. Which leads me to Lake Como, I had a week off from my circus show in Macau, and painstakingly convinced my mom and sister to meet me there in May (didn’t take much). Armed with my family’s obsession and a crappy Chinese Amazon raincoat for the forecasted rain, we set off to see if Lake Como lived up to the massive hype.

Spoiler alert: It is drop-dead gorgeous. But getting around is an absolute sport, and if you don’t plan ahead, you will find yourself swearing, dragging your 3 piece luggage set up some cobble stone steps. 

Here is the ultimate, tried-and-tested 3-day itinerary to make sure you get the absolute best out of Lake Como (without getting stranded in a tiny village with no way back to your hotel.)

Where to Stay in Lake Como

Lake Como offers many luxuries, “winging it” as far as accommodation goes, isn’t one of them. Public transit stops early, so where you stay is most likely where you will be enjoying the majority of your dinners.

The Vibe: Charming, colorful, and home to the gorgeous Passeggiata degli Innamorati (Walk of Lovers). Also has great shopping

Best for: First-timers, train travelers, and couples looking for romantic scenery without the sheer insanity of Bellagio’s crowds. Also to note, unlike other villages, Varenna is connected directly to Milan by train, making it a dream for public transit users. 

Varenna Accommodation Suggestion: Hotel Royal Victoria

A great location right on the central square of Varenna, coupled with an unbeatable view. Hotel Royal Victoria will have you waking up listening to nothing but the waves crashing against the wall of the promenade. My family stayed here, and they reported back, “It’s what dreams are made of.”  

The Vibe: This working city is located on the southeastern branch of the lake. It’s the more affordable option but the views are a steal. HA. So punny. Check this one out, it’s truly an overlooked gem. Note that Lecco is not connected to the main central lake ferry loop but has great train access.

Best For: Hikers, budget-conscious travelers, and anyone wanting a more authentic experience away from the masses.

Lecco Accommodation Suggestion: Hotel Promessi Sposi (Malgrate)

If you still want an elevated stay, you’ll want to stay just across from Lecco in Malgrate. It’s a short 15 minute walk across the bridge into Lecco proper but it’s one of the more upscale options opposed to staying in a rundown apartment next to the train station. 

The Vibe: Peaceful, beautiful, and perfectly positioned on the western shore. It’s home to epic historic villas and the starting point of the Greenway trail.

Best For: Garden enthusiasts, history buffs, and travelers looking for a slow-paced holiday. Take note that if the weather sucks, Tremezzo can be a bite boring.

 Tremezzo Accommodation Suggestion: Grand Hotel Tremezzo.

Yes, very expensive but I was speechless when I walked in the door. The flower arrangements alone looked painted, the epitome of perfection. If you don’t stay here, at least get a meal here because it was the best meal we had on the entire trip. “Cacio e Pepe for the table, please!”

The vibe: Uber luxe. You’ll be rubbing elbows with George Clooney or at least old men that look like him. Cernobbio is where the wealthy vacation. But keep in mind if you stay here, you’ll be staying here because it’sa long ferry ride to other towns

Best For: Luxury Travelers. Those who want the best of what Lake Como can offer.

Cernobbio Accommodation suggestion: Villa d’Este

You must check out the famous Villa d’Este. It was built as a cardinal residence in the 16th century and then turned into a gorgeous hotel on the lake. The grounds couldn’t be more pristine and the hotel comes with a floating pool on the lake!

Cernobbio Restaurant Suggestion: Il Gatto Nero

If you stay here check out Il Gatto Nero. This is my step mom’s favorite restaurant. We didn’t get a chance to eat here but I’ve heard nothing but good things. Located high on a hillside above cernobbio, it has beautiful indoor or outdoor terrace seating. Not to mention, incredible (Italian step mother vetted*), pastas and risottos.

View from the terrace of Il Gatto Nero. 

3 Days in Lake Como: Day 1

Time Needed: The Walk of Lovers can be done in 5 minutes if you’re walking with a purpose but if you enjoy it’ll be about 15 minutes. Budget 2 hours for Villa Monastero or 1 hour for just the gardens of Villa Monastero. 

If you’re staying in Varenna, I suggest starting your first morning with a gentle stroll with eye-candy views. The Passeggiata degli Innamorati is a short, suspended red path that hugs the cliffside right over the water’s edge in Varenna. It’s draped in lush greenery and vibrant flowers, offering unmatched photo opportunities before the massive wave of day-trippers from Milan hits the town.

Right at the end of your walk, head straight on into Villa Monastero. Even if you can only name three types of trees, I promise you will be blown away by the 900+ species of exotic plants living their best lives here. The gardens stretch along the shoreline, offering panoramic views of the lake.

Time needed: It will take about 25-40 minutes up and about 25-30 minutes to get down. 

Now that you’ve carb-o-loaded, it’s time for a little hike. Take the Scabium path (The Scenic Route that starts near Villa Monastero / The Cemetery) through the olive groves to Castello di Vezio, a ruined medieval castle perched high above Varenna.

Al Prato is a cozy restaurant tucked into a quiet Varenna piazza. The food is phenomenal but the problem is that it’s difficult to get a reservation online. You can try walking in or make a reservation for the following day. 

Il Cavatappi is second to none. You won’t be settling for eating here I promise. It’s got that tiny hole-in-the-wall, only find in Italy, vibe and a famous duck ragu that could make you cry. 

3 Days in Lake Como: Day 2

Time needed: 2.5-3.5 hours

Take the morning ferry across the lake to start one of the most stunning walks in northern Italy. Full disclosure: you won’t be able to do both of these fully, or it will take you 6+ hours. I suggest starting in Lenno and walking the northern half of the Greenway del Lago, then heading straight up to Chiesa San Martino via Griante; it’s far more manageable.

This combo pack combines walking along the waterfront with weaving between locals watering their gardens in quiet stone villages, before winding up the mountain. The final reward is a tiny, picturesque church clinging to a cliff face with a view over the entire lake that blew my mind.

My 70-year-old momma managed to do this walk with a brand new hip! She was an absolute rockstar and worked very hard to be able to do it. 

Unfortunately, the weather sucked while we were there, and we only managed to do this one hike because of the freezing rain.

Time needed: 1-2 hours

After descending, make your way to Tremezzo to visit Villa Carlotta. Calling this place a “garden” is a massive understatement—it is an otherworldly botanical dreamscape. If you walk deep enough into the sprawling valleys of giant ferns, rhododendrons, and bamboo, you will completely forget that there are other tourists around. 

Time needed: Depends on the tour you take.

If there is one thing you absolutely cannot skip on this trip, it is hiring a private boat. We splurged on a private sunset cruise after our hike to catch the last golden hours of sunshine, and it was easily the absolute highlight of our entire trip.

We cruised across the water with our wine glasses full of local Verdesse white wine, ogling at the ridiculous lakeside estates, asking ourselves which one we’d prefer to live in. Each boat trip is a bit different, and you can request to see certain villas if you’re passionate about one versus another. 

Having an amazing local captain makes all the difference—ours kept the white wine flowing. No complaints. 5 stars.

3 Days in Lake Como: Day 3

Time needed: An hour to get there and around 2-3 hours to enjoy

Head back to Lenno to visit the crown jewel of the lake: Villa del Balbianello. First built as a monastery in the 13th century, it was renovated and expanded over the generations. The perfectly manicured terraced gardens are to die for or go bankrupt for. They take over 2 million euros a year to maintain. Respect. 

It is also incredibly famous as a Hollywood filming location—you’ll recognize it as the planet Naboo from Star Wars: Attack of the Clones and the lakefront recuperation home in James Bond’s Casino Royale.

Inside the villa, everything was kept exactly how Guido Monzino, the private owner, left it. 

Aside from the movie magic, the villa houses an incredible museum dedicated to its final private owner from the 1970s, Guido Monzino. He was an eccentric Italian businessman and explorer who led the very first Italian expedition to climb Mount Everest. The rooms are preserved exactly as he left them—down to a single cigarette sitting in an ashtray on his library desk—and are packed with fascinating expedition artifacts, polar sleds, and ancient art.

I’m getting married later this year so we looked into how much it would cost to have a wedding at Villa Balbianello. And for a mere 70,000 euros we can rent out the venue. I told my finacé our guests can bring their own sandwiches but he said our Hong Kong courthouse wedding is practically the same thing.

Time needed: 2-3 hours

A lot of people say Bellagio is overrated but I beg to differ. It’s worth the crowds! (In low season.)

Take the ferry over to Bellagio, the famous “Pearl of the Lake.” Yes, it is beautiful, but be prepared: it truly is packed with tourists. But if you can handle a few elbows, the narrow, steep stone staircases are lined with cozy wine cellars, upscale boutiques, and gelaterias.

While you are here, do what I regret not doing: buy some local silk! I still regret not getting this beautiful multi colored halter top that looked a bit like a high end fashion staple from the 70s.

Como is the silk capital of the western world, and the craftsmanship is unmatched. Check out some authentic spots like:

• • • Pierangelo Masciadri

    • Frey Boutique

    • Azalea

Head back early to Varenna for a relaxed, final dinner by the water.

Pay attention to the time.

We didn’t, and we got stranded our first night in Como. Not kidding, we waited so long for a taxi that the restaurant we ate at closed, and our waiter offered to drive us back to our accommodation. Then, to make matters worse, the gates to our hotel were closed. We had to SCALE THE GATE WITH OUR 70-YEAR-OLD MOTHER! Did I mention our mother is a champion? Well, long story short, scaling the wall was unnecessary because the gates were not locked. We just had to slide them open.

Wooops. At least we have a good story out of it. 

Lake Como Warnings:

What People Won’t Tell You

• Transportation is nearly non-existent at night: Taxis are incredibly rare and only operate in Como City. Ride-shares don’t exist. Buses run infrequently and stop early (around 9:00 PM), and if they are full, they will drive right past you. Keep a close eye on the ferry timetable so you don’t get stranded!

• The food is good, but not mind-blowing: We didn’t have much luck carelessly wandering into the best restaurant of our lives. But with some research, you won’t be disappointed.

• When it rains, it pours: This is a destination built for being outdoors. If the weather turns, have a backup plan (like booking a local cooking class or visiting the Silk Museum in Como City).

• Ditch the car, consider a motorbike: The roads are narrow, winding, and stressful. Renting a scooter is the ultimate Italian experience and makes zipping past the ferry traffic a breeze.